The joy of any travel extends from just being in a different human milieu, to the daily food search, museums and gardens and churches or temples, to retail experiences — markets or boutiques and department stores, even to local transportation and daily habits. In Japan the language barrier that exists for most foreigners can be intimidating, but their organized systems are very helpful and rational.

Remember that it is a monoculture. They themselves all know the rules and subscribe to them. It is up to us to adapt, observe and marvel at how everything works. Be open to all experiences, but realize you will never belong. This can be an advantage.

Most of the time on my buying trips I spend a week in Tokyo and a week in Kyoto, with a few excursions if time or opportunity allow. And, of course, the opportunity to see exhibitions, revisit favorite temples and shrines and just wander around is an annual pleasure.

Nezu Museum Garden in Tokyo, Japan from Asiatica | Kansas City on Vimeo.

Tokyo

Tokyo is a huge city divided into neighborhoods. The neighborhood concept extends to maps and the whole sense of organization. Linear concepts like street names and orderly numerical series do not apply.  Some neighborhoods are fancy and full of famous shops (Omotesando, for example), some are malled in imaginative ways (Roppongi), some are for old books (Jimbocho), electronics (Akihabara), department stores (Ginza, Nihonbashi, Shinjuku, Shibuya). But in all the smaller streets are hidden restaurants, galleries, flower shops, architecture …. You have to pick a neighborhood and walk around. For example, in Ueno, which is where Ueno Park and the major museums are located, there is a street where you can buy bargain items — crackers, fish, cosmetics, etc. Any guidebook will give details of the characteristics of each neighborhood.

SOME RECOMMENDATIONS:

 • The food basements of any big department store (Mitsukoshi, Matsuya, Isetan).

• Yohji Yamamoto, Issey Miyake and Comme des Garcons shops in Omotesando (with lots of other boutiques in the side streets).

• Tsutaya book store in Daikanyama.

• Tokyo Midtown and Roppongi Hills Malls in Roppongi.

• The Axis Building in Roppongi where Nuno has its shop and where Living Motif shows Japanese and imported functional objects and furniture.

• Tokyu Hands, the most remarkable store reflecting Japanese thoroughness in sourcing every possible type of item from shoelaces to cheerleading supplies.

THERE IS MUCH MORE TO DISCOVER ON YOUR OWN. JUST REMEMBER THE IDEA THAT LOTS OF GOOD THINGS ARE HIDDEN.

Odeo Flea Market on Sunday morning. 

At Tsutaya Book Store in Ginza 6 mall.

View of gallery at MOA Museum in Atami.

Oysters at Ginza 6 Mall.

Detail of 17th century handscroll by Sotatsu and Koetsu at MOA Museum.

Shop sing of Higashiaoyama in Omotesando across from the Nezu.

Tokyo subway map detail

Dealer at Kyoto Antique Fair.

Toraya Cake Shop in Tokyo Midtown Mall.

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Kyoto

Daniela walking in the rain at Honen-in, Kyoto.

If you expected to immediately see the Japanese traditional aesthetic which lured you here, you will be sharply disappointed when you arrive. The Kyoto train station is an unattractive and hulking building with a mall inside. You do not need to enter it at all since you can just step off the Shinkansen and head to the street and waiting taxis. (Remember when using the Shinkansen-bullet train to ask for the Shinkansen rather than just the the generic “train station” since there is a separate entrance available in most cases). But once past the station, head North to your hotel and the view will slowly change. The joys of Kyoto are infinite and varied.

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Temples, Gardens and Villas

Daitoku-ji in Kyoto, Japan from Asiatica | Kansas City on Vimeo.

There are hundreds of temples, shrines and gardens to see (consult a good guidebook). There are also the Imperial villas: Katsura Rikyu and Shugaku-in (reservations required). My favorite places include Ginkaku-ji, Daitoku-ji, Sanjusangendo, Sambo-in, Shisendo, Nanzen-ji, Honen-in. On your first visit, do not visit too many or your impressions will congeal and the memories will not remain clear. Do not be deterred by rain and remember the seasonal flowers which bring tourists when they are in bloom. Walking down the “Poet’s Path” from Shisendo on the east side and visiting temples along the way is delightful.

It is true that the beauties of these places have not infected the main streets of Kyoto. So when you have had enough of browsing, shopping and observing city life, just jump into a cab and go to one of the places above.

As for the streets of Kyoto, once again there are surprises.

Unlike Tokyo, Kyoto follows an ancient Chinese street plan: a north-south, east-west grid. The quadrant of Shijo, Kawaramachi, Marutamachi, Karasuma dori streets contain many of the main shopping opportunities: department stores, boutiques, antique stores, bars, food markets, coffee shops, bakeries etc. But there are some outliers: Stardust and Mitate are new discoveries, You can find more by using Instagram and other means.

Temple in Kyoto

Ryugen-in at Daitoku-ji

Kyoto Station from the Shinkansen.

Fan seen at Issey Miyake, Kyoto.

Salad at Stardust in Kyoto.

Pine Trees outside Ryugen-in.

Tonkatsu at Katsukura, Kyoto.

Accumulating kimono.

Flowers at Hana-ya Mitate.

Sanjusangendo.

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General Information

Where to Stay

I recommend staying in the neighborhood where your research suggests those places of main interest to you are. The hotel will be helpful with any information you might need. Park Hyatt, Grand Hyatt, Ritz Carlton all have fancy properties but are very expensive. Fine Japanese inns are available — especially in Kyoto — as are private accommodations. It all depends on your budget, habits and preferences.

Travel Logistics

“Takyubin” is the magic word which took me way too long to learn. This is Japanese UPS. They will transport your luggage from one city to another, from your hotel to the airport, from your point of purchase to your shipper, etc. The price is very low and the convenience is unmatched. You will notice that only tourists are dealing with luggage.

What to Eat

Japanese food! Although there are other fine options. There are lots of restaurant guides. Sushi is expensive, but have some. Sashimi is even better. Also tonkatsu, tofu, croissants, fruit smoothies, Japanese crackers, coffee, tea, mochi, rice, sake and beer, seasonal vegetables and fish, eggplant and more.

For a real food treat visit the food basement of any department store.

In Kyoto: Omen at Ginkakuji, Katsukura in the middle of the Sanjo mall, Bosom (sic) for Italian, Le Bouchon is a cosy French restaurant.

Shinkansen, Bullet Train

I never make a reservation, but prefer to just go to the station and buy a ticket for the next train. They run so frequently — at least between Tokyo and Kyoto — that i save myself the stress of having to meet a specific schedule.

Reserved seat, no smoking and on the Mt.Fuji side please. You can tell when you are near Fuji by using your phone’s location service. It is not visible frequently, but when it is you will want to see it.

Phone

My Verizon account lets me use my i-phone in Japan as if I were home for $10 a day.

Money

There are no more travelers’ checks. So I take American cash. You can change at the airport at the same rate as in a bank. Some hotels will also change money as will major department stores. In Kyoto there are 2 money-changing places on opposite corners of Sanjo-Kawaramachi streets with excellent rates and very fast. You will need a passport with you. You will also need a passport if you want to get a tax refund for purchases in department stores or other “tax-refund” shops.

Clothing

Shoes that are easy to take off and put on and will be comfortable for all day walking are imperative. Two pair for two weeks is plenty. You will need socks not only for comfort, but also because you cannot walk on tatami in bare feet and you will need to take off your shoes at temples, private homes and even in the dressing room when trying on clothes.

Of course your wardrobe should consist of nothing but Asiatica clothes. Check our website before you go.